Top 20 Highlights about Ghana

1. Finally getting to travel Africa with a friend, had an awesome time with my girl Vumi and got to see her view of my beloved Mother Africa. I've often said that Africa seems like my secret lover, I always tell friends how great he is but I still worry that when they meet him they won't see the magic that has me head-over-heels. I can safely say, she saw what it is that has me so in love :)

2. Staying with Cornelius's family, there's always something so valuable about being exposed to families and seeing how they live their lives (as opposed to being at a hotel, after the first 100 hotels, they all feel the same).

3. Meeting Nati. She is a white German lady who was working at one of the hospitals in Accra and staying at the same house as me. My first morning in Accra she made me breakfast and a cup of coffee, such a sweet gesture. Finding out that she takes a bicycle to work each day really touched me, it's cool how she totally embraced the environment.

4. The weather. I absolutely loved the weather in Accra. After leaving what felt like a never-ending winter in Jo'burg, I felt like the warmth in Accra was giving me a much needed hug. It wasn't too hot, just warm enough to make me smile.

5. Meeting Michael. It was incredible to spend hours with a fellow young youth leader who is absolutely devoted to this continent. His experience, humility and the fun we had really made my trip more worthwhile. It felt like meeting a twin-soul.

6. Jollof rice. I loooved it from the first taste! I've always been a fan of spicy food and in Accra I was in heaven! The food was absolutely divine and the rice is my favourite by far :)

7. Tro-Tros (known as taxis in SA). The transport system was very efficient and I loved the taxi rank experiences. Seeing women balancing products on their heads and not to mention the people who would come into the taxi and perform impromptu 'informercials' on their products, sharing the benefits and how lucky you'd be if you got your hands on their products. #Priceless!

8. Labadi Beach Hotel. Vu stayed here for the first 4 days, it was such a pleasure to contrast the 5-star experience and also the real world. From the service, to the food and their super-fast internet at the business centre, I'd highly recommend the place!

9. The entrepreneurial spirit. Everyone in Accra is an entrepreneur! I remember mentioning that I could do all my shopping in rush-hour traffic. From jumper cables, to Scrabble, to onions, to toys, to chocolates to ornaments... It's all there!

10. Ghanaians are VERY religious. I was not prepared for the level of religion that is entrenched in the society. From messages on taxis/cars/busses to the various businesses with Christian names and even this one juice (saw it on a billboard) called Hallelujah.God is definitely a large part of the culture.

11. This wasn't actually about Ghana, but I got to watch a Zulu movie on the plane to Accra. I thought that was pretty awesome. The new planes have a personalised selection where you can choose from movies/series/music/games. Listening to Loliwe as we crossed the Atlantic was pretty cool as well.

12. Getting on a horse on the beach. I don't think I've actually ever been on a horse in my entire life (I can't even ride a bicycle), that was super-cool!

13. Seeing all the dedications to the late president John Atta Mills. Even when we went to Cape Coast, it really felt like the whole country was in mourning for their leader. They even had black and red wrapping on the trees as a symbol that the country was in mourning. I was touched.

14. The reggae beach party. That was in a league of it's own! Being surrounded by rastas, dancing to Bob Marley tracks and just going with the flow...

15. Meeting the president of the IPF party's youth league from Ivory Coast. The highlight of meeting him actually includes others, like how surprising it was to see how much of a sense of humour he has (for someone who's in exile and his country is in turmoil). I can remember a number of GPY moments when I was around him.

16. Bonding with Cornelius's mom. We took a trip to Amasaman together and she stayed with me as I was headed to Bujumbura, I really enjoyed the conversation. On one of the nights, she shared with Vumi and I the various foods available in Ghana and we had yam together. Such a cool lady.

17. My trip to the refugee camp, the trip itself (which included lots of drama with passengers and the driver, and how he just stopped the taxi at some point and went for a walk, leaving us for a good 15 minutes). And getting to the camp. I expected sad, distraught people but when I got there, I found a lot of young people doing the best they can in a tough situation, and a number of 'couples' which was a shock for me and a lot of budding entrepreneurs with shops and stalls, trying to make some money.

18. The people. I loved the kindness and friendliness of Ghanaians. Especially when people heard that  I was from SA, they were always more than willing to help and make sure that my stay was comfortable. That definitely made me feel at home.

19. Going to Cape Coast Castle. The real truth about the slave trade was very emotional for me, but the honesty of it all and how I felt when I realised the role played by fellow Africans, it was heartbreaking yet quite enlightening. Similar to the time when I went to the genocide memorial in Rwanda, I was shocked at the cruelty of human nature. Yet the world is still filled with so much goodness and kindness and beauty, the contrast is amazing...

 

20. The kids. I'm such a sucker for children. I sooo loved coming home and having Hepzibah run up to me and give me a hug whilst screaming: 'Aunty Amanda!' I've never seen my self as particularly maternal, but I so do enjoy the amazing love and acceptance that children show. It's truly a universal attribute...

A Summary of West Africa (2012 Trip)

I came home to the news of the passing of a dear newly found friend. Suddenly so much has shifted. The plan was to share how amazing the trip was, how much fun we had and how much I learnt. But as I sit here now, this is my truth. Life is dear and it is short. Those who shine brightest, too often leave us too soon. To summarise, I felt at home in West Africa, I was embraced by many beautiful friends and surrounded by incredible favour. I'm busy preparing a list of the top 'Wow' moments from my trip and when I'm done I will share them on the blog, yet for now so much of what seemed so important just hours ago, feels insignificant. The few things that remain are the ones that I am now able to feel...

There's this thing about Knowing. When you know you know, you know. Lagos was beyond anything I could have imagined, the madness, the noise, the rush, the grandeur, the energy... the pulse! I saw in that grungy *bad-ass* city, a reflection of me. So many flaws, yet so much achievement and even more hope. I can't begin to describe what it felt like to hear that people have to figure out how they get electricity, their own water and how those in power are only known for taking from the poor to fill their already bulging wallets. I cannot judge, but I can understand. I am in awe of the spirit of Nigerians. People who don't wait for a saviour, but become their own saviours in a dog-eat-dog world. I could relate to that animal instinct, that need to survive no matter what it takes. When you know that you're not meant to live as a slave/peasant, everything within you gives you what you need to survive.

Yesterday I visited Cape Coast in Ghana, and went to Cape Castle. A world renowned slave trading centre for centuries. The triangular trade model had me totally baffled. Europe traded cheap jewellery, rum and weapons with Africa in return for slaves, which were then sold to the Americas for raw materials, which were then processed in Europe for re-sale to the globe. It left such a bitter taste in my mouth to know that Africans sold their own for alcohol, weapons and cheap jewellery? When we were the richest in minerals and resources. As we walked through the dungeons of the slave trade centre, I remember telling my friend Vumi, it's not those who executed this plot that are monsters, but the man who designed this castle so efficiently for it to carry out such monstrocities. The saddest part was hearing that above the largest dungeon there was a church. So, whilst people were dying from malnutrition and mistreatment, above them people were worshipping. I agree with the guide when he said: 'There's never been a cleared depiction of heaven above, and hell below.'

As an advocate for this continent, I always believe in sharing the endless possibilities that abound in Africa. We have hard working people, beautiful landscapes and numerous natural resources. But it would be a shame to not be honest about the truth of what Africa is really like and what these strong and beautiful black people have been through. I'm proud to be African, there's no where else I'd rather be from, yet as a writer, I need to allow the truth to speak for itself.

Accra Nights

At sunset we took a walk on the beach. Of all the subjects, the topic was philosophy. Is there a God? What is love? Is passion a good or bad thing? What do you love? Just among some of the things we had on our minds. It's strange how life brings like-minded souls together. Tonight I spent hours with someone for whom it's taking all they have, to hang on for all they love. How scary is that, twin souls maybe, lost souls likely? We found ourselves imprisoned in each others space, savouring a moment, daring to be open and honest about our reality. This world is a harsh, cruel place. With beautiful strong people, I am blessed to have been where I was tonight, and I am even more in awe of the company I shared...